The Independent's journalism is supported by our readers. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn commission.?

City guides

Palermo city guide: Best things to do and where to stay in the energetic, charming capital of Sicily

Palermo has long been coveted by empires from two continents, and brandishes its history with pride – but as Jo Fernandez discovers, beyond its past there remain fantastic things to see, do and eat in Italy’s diverse Mediterranean city

Saturday 10 June 2023 12:42 BST
Comments
Churches, markets and more to be explored in Palermo
Churches, markets and more to be explored in Palermo (iStock)

Your support helps us to tell the story

From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.

At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.

The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.

Your support makes all the difference.

Palermo is quite possibly the most underrated city in Italy. It’s not for the fainthearted, but it’s sure got swagger. Sexy, scruffy and slightly addictive, Palermo rewards the traveller who takes the time to get to know it. Slender side streets emerge into crumbling squares lined with palazzi, and terracotta-toned landmark buildings embellish Palermo’s low-rise skyline.

Cultures from the Middle East, Europe and Africa have influenced everything, from food to architecture to dialect. One glance reveals the architectural layers of who came and conquered: Phoenicians, Normans, Turks, Egyptians, Arabs and Spaniards. All of life is here in Italy’s most ethnically diverse city. Here’s how to best experience it.

Best things to do

Computer culture

You don’t have to be a nerd to find MEC (Meet, Eat, Connect) a fascinating way to pass an hour or two. Housed in the 16th-century Palazzo Castrone, across from the Arab-Norman cathedral, this museum-restaurant concept fuses tech and fine food. Architect Giuseppe Forello has one of the largest Apple collections in Europe, a fraction of which appears in this exhibition tracing the firm’s history, with a range of original Macs, iMacs and iPads – along with Steve Jobs’s trainers, jeans and watch. Every evening except Sunday, chef Carmelo Trentacosti (formerly at Rocco Forte’s sumptuous Villa Igiea hotel) dishes up an avant-garde tasting menu celebrating Sicilian flavours, which recently won him a well-earned Michelin star.

Read more on Italy travel:

The ‘Square of Shame’, home to the Praetorian Fountain, was nicknamed due to the naked statues around it
The ‘Square of Shame’, home to the Praetorian Fountain, was nicknamed due to the naked statues around it (iStock)

Food for thought

Culinary Backstreets’ food-based walking tours are the best way to get an authentic taste of a place, load up on the famous (and lesser-known) dishes and learn fascinating facts as you go. “Savouring Palermo: In the Markets and Beyond” is their latest tour (?107 for adults); plugged-in local guides take you to places only a local would know about for mozzarella and anchovy-stuffed panzerotti rolls and panelle, deep-fried chickpea flour fritters, a fine example of early Arabic influence. Keep your belt loose for sfincione, thick pizza-meets-focaccia flavoured with sweet onion, oregano and various cheeses, from creamy ricotta to salty caciocavallo. There’s also a strong cultural element, with stops at a puppet workshop, creating handmade dolls from wood and metal for the daily shows, and a fifth-generation carob sweet factory.

Urban art

Migrants past and present are celebrated in multicultural murals around the city. In La Kalsa historic Arab quarter, one of the oldest areas in the city, housing blocks feature an homage to Federico II, known for his inclusion, and the face of a beautiful black woman, her head covered and a golden halo-like design glowing behind.

Near Ballaro market, in the Albergheria district, a tiny hummingbird lifts the impossible, picking up an enormous rock with its wings. Nearby, the towering mural of brown-skinned Saint Benedict the Moor guards the residential square and football pitch.

Best time to visit

Although Palermo is a year-round destination, late spring and early autumn are peak seasons as the Mediterranean heat, ramped up by the sirocco wind, is less intense. Low season – from November to April – brings reduced hotel rates and fewer crowds.

Wandering the many street markets in Palermo is great for visitors
Wandering the many street markets in Palermo is great for visitors (Getty)

Where to stay

B&B Sant Agostino

On a narrow side street near the opera-hosting Teatro Massimo, this art-filled B&B is close to culture. B&B Sant Agostino, at the top of a 19th-century palazzo, is a charming series of rooms and suites, all different: some with four-poster beds, beams and rooftop views framed by tiny windows, some with two levels, lounges and sofa beds. All have access to pretty, plant-filled terraces and the fresco-ceilinged room where homemade breakfast is served each morning. santagostinobb.it

Read more: Best hotels in Sicily

Grand Hotel et des Palmes

Top marks to the history-filled Grand Hotel et des Palmes on a stellar renovation of this Art Nouveau mansion, once home to the Ingham-Whitakers wine sellers (also where Wagner composed his final opera). The sensitive reviving – and blending – of original features with a fresh, modern design creates a glamorous spot on the busy Via Roma. Hand-painted wallpapers and gilt-edged mirrors mix with burgundy velvet sofas and honey-hued oak flooring. Start each day in the glass-roofed Winter Garden, dining on Sicilian specialities such as cannoli (cream-filled pastry horns). grandhotel-et-des-palmes.com

Villa Igiea

This Belle ?poque palazzo-turned-Rocco Forte resort on the Bay of Palermo is a calming contrast to the city buzz. You’ll find fanciful turrets, terraced gardens fragrant with orange, lemon and olive trees, a curved pool and suites dressed up by Olga Polizzi with sea-facing terracotta-tiled terraces. Original frescoes, antique doors and handmade tiles are as impressive as the Sicilian menus laced with local ingredients; that, plus the smiley service and perfumed public spaces. roccofortehotels.com

Where to eat

Sicilians love their ice cream so much they eat it for breakfast, adding scoops of the sweet stuff to a round brioche bun. It’s not hard to find a kiosk peddling gorgeously creamy jasmine or cinnamon gelato, but if you’re by the harbour, try Gelateria Rorò in Piazza Marina, which also offers vegan flavours.

Near the other side of the port and opened in 1951, Piccolo Napoli is a neighbourhood trattoria with white tablecloths and walls hung with black and white family photos (including the current generation of owners). The slightly unloved terrace is made up for by simple Sicilian dishes, from warm sesame-coated bread dusted with oregano to fresh tuna steaks, spaghetti nero di seppia (squid ink) and that sweet and salty combination of aubergine, basil, celery, capers and tomato that make up the classic caponata.

There’s plenty of street food to be found
There’s plenty of street food to be found (Francesco Cipriani/Culinary Backstreets)

Spleen sandwich anyone? Nni Franco U Vastiddaru, on the corner of Via Vittorio Emanuele and the ficus-shaded Piazza Marina, is full of locals tucking into the aforementioned boiled cows’ innards with lemon and salt or ricotta and caciocavallo cheese. If not, order arancini, deep-fried risotto rice balls filled with a tasty mix of ragu, green peas and mozzarella.

The rose-filled gardens of the Santa Caterina convent are the perfect place for experiencing heaven-sent Sicilian sweet treats such as cassata (sweetened ricotta sponge cake). The I Segreti del Chiostropasticceria uses once-secret recipes that helped the cloistered Dominican nuns who lived in the apartments overlooking the courtyard generate an income.

Where to drink

The barman at Deca Bistro mixes colourful cocktails with speed and flair among the whitewashed walls and industrial-style seating. On balmy nights, sit on the terrace that eats up a large portion of Piazza Giovanni Meli. Sip a cooling, colourful spritz beside the colossal Baroque San Domenico church, where namesake poet Giovanni Meli is buried.

Sciampagna is a fancy cake shop on Via Riccardo Wagner, with a photogenic array of fruit-and-macaron-topped celebration cakes downstairs and marble, white and Barbie pink decor in the upstairs cafe. Sip a bitter espresso to soften the sweetness of their torta setteveli, a rich glossy affair layering chocolate and hazelnut, usually eaten for birthdays.

Circi is a kiosk-meets-cafe by Piazza Beati Paoli with a smattering of chairs and tables where you can rest street-weary feet with a classic Palermitan acqua e zammù (water and star anise spirit). It’s served as a digestivo or refreshing drink, which turns cloudy if stirred.

Where to shop

Palermo’s markets are full of life. Vucciria is the most famous and popular with tourists – at night it’s like a street party. Ballarò, the biggest and most alluring, it’s where Palermitans shop. Capo, which extends through the labyrinth of streets in the Albergheria and Capo neighbourhood, is big on fresh fish. All are noisy, set to a soundtrack of shouty sellers imploring you to buy their Nocellara olives, pistachios or squeezed-to-order juices; radios blare, people sing, a man stands peeling prawns to an audience of filming iPhones, and the air is heady with everything from fresh fish to sweet, dried oregano.

Citrus trees brought to Sicily by the North African Muslims in the 11th century thrive in the fertile volcanic soil. The Bay of Palermo was once called the Conca d’Oro (Shell of Gold) for the bright hue and wealth created by Sicilian lemons, which supply the majority of Italy. On Via Vittorio Emanuele, Cassaro Bottega Alimentare is a little lemon-focused store with lemon-shaped and scented soaps, pasta and limoncello. A few tables in the back patio offer a sweet spot for an aperitivo.

A long history of alterations has given Palermo Cathedral a mix of architectural styles
A long history of alterations has given Palermo Cathedral a mix of architectural styles (Francesco Cipriani/Culinary Backstreets)

Getting around

The condensed and compact city is easy to explore on foot, with car-free streets and skinny alleys you can’t get down any other way (mind the scooters). AMAT buses run all over the city, with €3.50 (?3) tickets valid all day.

Architectural highlight

On paper, it’s a hot mess, with multiple layers of crenellations, porticos and geometric patterns reflecting different builders who’ve meddled over the centuries, but the Cattedrale di Palermo (Palermo Cathedral), a Unesco World Heritage Site, is a charmer. The mix of Romanesque, Norman, Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassical presiding over the far end of the Via Vittorio Emanuele, is impressive by any standard, and the tourist-topped roof terrace one of the best viewpoints in the city.

FAQs

What currency do I need?

Euros.

What language do they speak?

Italian and the Palermitano dialect of the Sicilian language.

Should I tip?

Tipping isn’t expected but in restaurants leave €5-€20 (?4-?17) if you want to show appreciation; if your tour guide impressed you, give €10-€50 (?8.50-?43).

What’s the time difference?

GMT+2.

What’s the average flight time from the UK?

Two hours and 50 minutes.

What’s the best view?

Standing in the middle of Quattro Canti (Four Corners) puts you in the beating heart of the old city and reflects its long-gone opulence. Four roads meet at this mesmerisingly ornate Baroque square, ringed by four lofty palaces jutting skywards, their curved facades adorned with statues of saints and sovereigns.

Insider tip?

The biggest and most important celebration of the year is the July feast of Saint Rosalia, a patron saint said to have saved the city from plague. Packed processions and amazing food culminates in the parade of Saint Rosalia’s chariot through the streets.

Getting there

Trying to fly less?

Catch the Eurostar from London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord, then a train from Gare de Lyon towards Milan, Naples and eventually Palermo Centrale (via the ferry from Villa San Giovanni, which the train rolls on to). You can also take a ferry to Palermo from the port in Naples.

Fine with flying?

British Airways, Ryanair and easyJet all fly direct from the UK.

If you like a little hand holding when you travel, Kirker Holidays’ wrap-around trips include flights, hotel, private transfers, what-to-do notes and a concierge for bookings in the destination, from opera tickets to local guides (three nights from ?896pp B&B; kirkerholidays.com).

Read more on the best Italy hotels

Join our commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Comments

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in

universo-virtual.com
buytrendz.net
thisforall.net
benchpressgains.com
qthzb.com
mindhunter9.com
dwjqp1.com
secure-signup.net
ahaayy.com
soxtry.com
tressesindia.com
puresybian.com
krpano-chs.com
cre8workshop.com
hdkino.org
peixun021.com
qz786.com
utahperformingartscenter.org
maw-pr.com
zaaksen.com
ypxsptbfd7.com
worldqrmconference.com
shangyuwh.com
eejssdfsdfdfjsd.com
playminecraftfreeonline.com
trekvietnamtour.com
your-business-articles.com
essaywritingservice10.com
hindusamaaj.com
joggingvideo.com
wandercoups.com
onlinenewsofindia.com
worldgraphic-team.com
bnsrz.com
wormblaster.net
tongchengchuyange0004.com
internetknowing.com
breachurch.com
peachesnginburlesque.com
dataarchitectoo.com
clientfunnelformula.com
30pps.com
cherylroll.com
ks2252.com
webmanicura.com
osostore.com
softsmob.com
sofietsshotel.com
facetorch.com
nylawyerreview.com
apapromotions.com
shareparelli.com
goeaglepointe.com
thegreenmanpubphuket.com
karotorossian.com
publicsensor.com
taiwandefence.com
epcsur.com
odskc.com
inzziln.info
leaiiln.info
cq-oa.com
dqtianshun.com
southstills.com
tvtv98.com
thewellington-hotel.com
bccaipiao.com
colectoresindustrialesgs.com
shenanddcg.com
capriartfilmfestival.com
replicabreitlingsale.com
thaiamarinnewtoncorner.com
gkmcww.com
mbnkbj.com
andrewbrennandesign.com
cod54.com
luobinzhang.com
bartoysdirect.com
taquerialoscompadresdc.com
aaoodln.info
amcckln.info
drvrnln.info
dwabmln.info
fcsjoln.info
hlonxln.info
kcmeiln.info
kplrrln.info
fatcatoons.com
91guoys.com
signupforfreehosting.com
faithfirst.net
zjyc28.com
tongchengjinyeyouyue0004.com
nhuan6.com
oldgardensflowers.com
lightupthefloor.com
bahamamamas-stjohns.com
ly2818.com
905onthebay.com
fonemenu.com
notanothermovie.com
ukrainehighclassescort.com
meincmagazine.com
av-5858.com
yallerdawg.com
donkeythemovie.com
corporatehospitalitygroup.com
boboyy88.com
miteinander-lernen.com
dannayconsulting.com
officialtomsshoesoutletstore.com
forsale-amoxil-amoxicillin.net
generictadalafil-canada.net
guitarlessonseastlondon.com
lesliesrestaurants.com
mattyno9.com
nri-homeloans.com
rtgvisas-qatar.com
salbutamolventolinonline.net
sportsinjuries.info
topsedu.xyz
xmxm7.com
x332.xyz
sportstrainingblog.com
autopartspares.com
readguy.net
soniasegreto.com
bobbygdavis.com
wedsna.com
rgkntk.com
bkkmarketplace.com
zxqcwx.com
breakupprogram.com
boxcardc.com
unblockyoutubeindonesia.com
fabulousbookmark.com
beat-the.com
guatemala-sailfishing-vacations-charters.com
magie-marketing.com
kingstonliteracy.com
guitaraffinity.com
eurelookinggoodapparel.com
howtolosecheekfat.net
marioncma.org
oliviadavismusic.com
shantelcampbellrealestate.com
shopleborn13.com
topindiafree.com
v-visitors.net
qazwsxedcokmijn.com
parabis.net
terriesandelin.com
luxuryhomme.com
studyexpanse.com
ronoom.com
djjky.com
053hh.com
originbluei.com
baucishotel.com
33kkn.com
intrinsiqresearch.com
mariaescort-kiev.com
mymaguk.com
sponsored4u.com
crimsonclass.com
bataillenavale.com
searchtile.com
ze-stribrnych-struh.com
zenithalhype.com
modalpkv.com
bouisset-lafforgue.com
useupload.com
37r.net
autoankauf-muenster.com
bantinbongda.net
bilgius.com
brabustermagazine.com
indigrow.org
miicrosofts.net
mysmiletravel.com
selinasims.com
spellcubesapp.com
usa-faction.com
snn01.com
hope-kelley.com
bancodeprofissionais.com
zjccp99.com
liturgycreator.com
weedsmj.com
majorelenco.com
colcollect.com
androidnews-jp.com
hypoallergenicdogsnames.com
dailyupdatez.com
foodphotographyreviews.com
cricutcom-setup.com
chprowebdesign.com
katyrealty-kanepa.com
tasramar.com
bilgipinari.org
four-am.com
indiarepublicday.com
inquick-enbooks.com
iracmpi.com
kakaschoenen.com
lsm99flash.com
nana1255.com
ngen-niagara.com
technwzs.com
virtualonlinecasino1345.com
wallpapertop.net
nova-click.com
abeautifulcrazylife.com
diggmobile.com
denochemexicana.com
eventhalfkg.com
medcon-taiwan.com
life-himawari.com
myriamshomes.com
nightmarevue.com
allstarsru.com
bestofthebuckeyestate.com
bestofthefirststate.com
bestwireless7.com
declarationintermittent.com
findhereall.com
jingyou888.com
lsm99deal.com
lsm99galaxy.com
moozatech.com
nuagh.com
patliyo.com
philomenamagikz.net
rckouba.net
saturnunipessoallda.com
tallahasseefrolics.com
thematurehardcore.net
totalenvironment-inthatquietearth.com
velislavakaymakanova.com
vermontenergetic.com
sizam-design.com
kakakpintar.com
begorgeouslady.com
1800birks4u.com
2wheelstogo.com
6strip4you.com
bigdata-world.net
emailandco.net
gacapal.com
jharpost.com
krishnaastro.com
lsm99credit.com
mascalzonicampani.com
sitemapxml.org
thecityslums.net
topagh.com
flairnetwebdesign.com
bangkaeair.com
beneventocoupon.com
noternet.org
oqtive.com
smilebrightrx.com
decollage-etiquette.com
1millionbestdownloads.com
7658.info
bidbass.com
devlopworldtech.com
digitalmarketingrajkot.com
fluginfo.net
naqlafshk.com
passion-decouverte.com
playsirius.com
spacceleratorintl.com
stikyballs.com
top10way.com
yokidsyogurt.com
zszyhl.com
16firthcrescent.com
abogadolaboralistamd.com
apk2wap.com
aromacremeria.com
banparacard.com
bosmanraws.com
businessproviderblog.com
caltonosa.com
calvaryrevivalchurch.org
chastenedsoulwithabrokenheart.com
cheminotsgardcevennes.com
cooksspot.com
cqxzpt.com
deesywig.com
deltacartoonmaps.com
despixelsetdeshommes.com
duocoracaobrasileiro.com
fareshopbd.com
goodpainspills.com
kobisitecdn.com
makaigoods.com
mgs1454.com
piccadillyresidences.com
radiolaondafresca.com
rubendorf.com
searchengineimprov.com
sellmyhrvahome.com
shugahouseessentials.com
sonihullquad.com
subtractkilos.com
valeriekelmansky.com
vipasdigitalmarketing.com
voolivrerj.com
zeelonggroup.com
1015southrockhill.com
10x10b.com
111-online-casinos.com
191cb.com
3665arpentunitd.com
aitesonics.com
bag-shokunin.com
brightotech.com
communication-digitale-services.com
covoakland.org
dariaprimapack.com
freefortniteaccountss.com
gatebizglobal.com
global1entertainmentnews.com
greatytene.com
hiroshiwakita.com
iktodaypk.com
jahatsakong.com
meadowbrookgolfgroup.com
newsbharati.net
platinumstudiosdesign.com
slotxogamesplay.com
strikestaruk.com
trucosdefortnite.com
ufabetrune.com
weddedtowhitmore.com
12940brycecanyonunitb.com
1311dietrichoaks.com
2monarchtraceunit303.com
601legendhill.com
850elaine.com
adieusolasomade.com
andora-ke.com
bestslotxogames.com
cannagomcallen.com
endlesslyhot.com
iestpjva.com
ouqprint.com
pwmaplefest.com
qtylmr.com
rb88betting.com
buscadogues.com
1007macfm.com
born-wild.com
growthinvests.com
promocode-casino.com
proyectogalgoargentina.com
wbthompson-art.com
whitemountainwheels.com
7thavehvl.com
developmethis.com
funkydogbowties.com
travelodgegrandjunction.com
gao-town.com
globalmarketsuite.com
blogshippo.com
hdbka.com
proboards67.com
outletonline-michaelkors.com
kalkis-research.com
thuthuatit.net
buckcash.com
hollistercanada.com
docterror.com
asadart.com
vmayke.org
erwincomputers.com
dirimart.org
okkii.com
loteriasdecehegin.com
mountanalog.com
healingtaobritain.com
ttxmonitor.com
bamthemes.com
nwordpress.com
11bolabonanza.com
avgo.top