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How Jamaica has bounced back after the devastation of Hurricane Beryl
The popular, vibrant holiday destination is back on fine form, says Sarah Marshall
Jamaica’s cultural contributions are legendary.
Birthplace of Bob Marley and Usain Bolt, the island has given us reggae, jerk and rum to name but a few attributes.
It continues to be one of the most vibrant destinations in the world - but the past year has not been easy for the Caribbean gem.
Despite its sunny disposition, the island endured dark days last year when Hurricane Beryl – a category five storm at its peak with winds as strong as 165mph – swept ashore wreaking havoc, death and destruction.
Fortunately, residents responded quickly and Jamaica has bounced back.
The first westerner to fall for its charms was Christopher Columbus back in 1494 who called it ‘the fairest isle that eyes have beheld’. It’s a description that remains accurate today.
Beyond the major urban hubs of capital Kingston and Montego Bay (where most visitors touch down), the island is lush and wild, dominated by the dramatic coffee-producing peaks of the Blue Mountains. An emerald interior of rainforests is sliced by rivers and dotted with waterfalls, while a coastline of soft, sandy shores is lapped by the inviting Caribbean Sea.
But Jamaica is far more than a place to experience solely from a sun-lounger with a rum cocktail in hand.
Here’s our guide to seeing and experiencing the very best of what’s on offer…
Bed down like a star
Located along a quiet stretch of coast near the town of Ocho Ríos and bookended by rugged headlands, the family-run Jamaica Inn has 55 TV-free rooms, suites and cottages. The focus is on quiet luxury, personalised service and old-school glamour – gentlemen are required to wear collars and trousers after 7pm while ladies are encouraged to dress up.
Aside from eight years at the very beginning, the dusky-blue two-storey British colonial-style property has been in the same family since it opened in 1950 and has welcomed many notable guests in the decades since.
Winston Churchill spent his time here painting watercolours from the verandah of a room now named in his honour, Marilyn Monroe honeymooned here with Arthur Miller and, more recently, Meghan Markle chose it as the venue for her first wedding in 2011. A framed photo of the Duchess and her estranged father taken at the property sits amongst many others on a table in the library.
Lime like a local
The community of Ocho Rios (meaning ‘Eight Rivers’) is located close to the Jamaica Inn. Once a quiet fishing village and known simply as ‘Ochi’ to locals, it has a craft market selling handmade souvenirs and some fun bars where locals gather for a spot of liming – a term used to describe the art of hanging out with pals.
Head to the Arsenal Sports Bar, where the reggae is loud and the drinks are strong. It’s teeny-tiny, with only four stools along the bar, and a little tricky to find. Just look for the bright yellow exterior decorated with a hand-painted mural of Gunners striker Bukayo Saka.
Dig musical roots
No man encapsulates Jamaica more than Bob Marley. Delve deep into the story of the island’s most famous son in the sleepy hills of the parish of St. Ann, where he was born on February 6, 1945.
It’s possible to visit his childhood home in the hamlet of Nine Miles which has been preserved with a number of his personal possessions and is now managed by members of the Marley family. Known as ReggaeLand, it’s also his final resting place. Fans can visit a chapel within the grounds.
Blend with Bond
When it comes to having a drink to remember, there’s no better place than GoldenEye, a swish resort of bridges, lagoons, beach huts and fancy cottages that was once the private estate of James Bond creator Ian Fleming.
After purchasing the land in 1946 and building a modest house, Fleming went on to write all 14 Bond books at the property. Following his death, it was sold and developed into a glitzy resort. Pull up a stool at the laidback beachfront Bamboo Bar.
Spice up your life
More of a way of life than merely a recipe, jerk seasoning is a complex and fiery blend of ingredients that dates back to the island’s indigenous tribes and is used to marinate pork, chicken and fish.
An island-wide obsession, it’s served in restaurants and roadside shacks everywhere – but one of the most authentic places to try it is Scotchies, a no-frills restaurant chain with branches in Montego Bay and Falmouth Pier. Order a side portion of festivals. Made from flour, cornmeal and sugar, these deep-fried treats are similar to dumplings.
Drift into the jungle
If hiking isn’t your thing, explore the jungle interior by water on a bamboo rafting experience along the Martha Brae River. Steered by local captains, the rafts – made from bamboo pole tied together and around 30ft in length – gently navigate a realm of tropical birds, butterflies and other wildlife.
Relax on the beach
Jamaica has some of the most beautiful in all the Caribbean, but one of the very finest is the slither of sand at the Jamaica Inn. Quiet, private and secluded, with water that’s as calm as it is warm, it’s large enough to find a patch all to yourself – but small enough to never be too far away from the bar.
How to plan your trip
Five nights at the Jamaica Inn with Virgin Atlantic Holidays (virginatlantic.com/holidays) starts from ?1,831 per person, including flights from London Heathrow and accommodation on a room only basis in May 2025.
For more information on the destination, go to visitjamaica.com.