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How to reduce the appearance of pores, according to dermatologists
Three dermatologists weigh in on what causes clogged pores along with the products to turn to
One of the most common skin complaints is enlarged pores. Despite this, there’s often conflicting advice online about how to “shrink” them, and the most efficacious ingredients and products to address them.
The wealth of information, and misinformation in equal measure, filling our feeds on TikTok, Instagram, YouTube and more, can make understanding what to do about enlarged pores feel confusing.
To cut through the noise, we spoke to three consultant dermatologists; Harley Street’s Dr Magnus Lynch, Dr Derrick Phillips from One Wellbeck and Dr Jinah Yoo from Maylin x Dr Jinah Yoo Dermatology clinic.
Each has shared their specialist skincare insights into everything you’ve ever wanted to know about pores, how to treat them effectively and their product recommendations for reducing their appearance across all skin types.
What are pores?
“Tiny openings on the surface of the skin through which hairs penetrate the skin. They are also the openings through which sebum (an oily secretion that lubricates the skin surface) reaches the skin surface,” explains Dr Lynch.
Dr Yoo adds that pores play a key role in regulating body temperature through sweating and removing toxins. “On the face, pores can appear larger due to excess oil production, and clogged pores can lead to acne or other skin issues.”
There are many misconceptions about how pores work, the most common myth is that they’re like doors that open or close. “In reality, they do not have the ability to perform this action. Instead, pores may appear larger when clogged or filled with oil and dirt, but they can’t physically change size,” says Dr Yoo. As they don’t have muscles attached, pores can’t contract to be larger or smaller, and everyone has them.
What causes pores to look bigger or become clogged?
Both Dr Phillips and Dr Lunch explain that the size of your pores is genetically determined, but there are other factors which can contribute to their appearance.
Dr Lynch advises that hormonal fluctuations, as a result of puberty or your menstrual cycle, can cause overactive sebaceous glands to produce more oil, which can make pores appear more prominent.
This excess oil production is often the cause of blackheads too, which develop as a result of sebum and keratin clogging the pores. “A reaction with oxygen in the air is responsible for their dark colour,” says Dr Phillips, who recommends steering clear of thick, occlusive oils that can clog pores, particularly if you have blemish-prone skin.
Lastly, Dr Lynch reveals that skin can lose elasticity due to ageing or sun exposure, which can cause pores to appear stretched or enlarged.
The best ingredients for reducing the appearance of pores
There are many avenues to reduce the appearance of pores. Dr Phillips recommends salicylic acid, which is a popular choice for those with acne. “Salicylic acid penetrates deep into pores to exfoliate and remove excess oil and debris, making it highly effective for unclogging pores.”
He also suggests glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that sloughs off dead cells on the surface of the skin to improve texture. Lastly, he’s a fan of using retinoids to boost cell turnover and gently exfoliate, which can help to keep pores clear and reduce their visibility over time.
Meanwhile, Dr Lynch highlights niacinamide as a star ingredient for reducing sebum production, improving skin barrier function and its anti-inflammatory actions.
We were keen to find out what products our dermatologists believe are worth adding to your skincare routine if enlarged pores are your biggest concern.
For oily skin, Dr Lynch believes incorporating niacinamide, especially with The Ordinary niacinamide 10 per cent + zinc 1 per cent (?5, Lookfantastic.com), will yield results. “Niacinamide reduces sebum production and zinc has anti-inflammatory properties,” he says, and you can’t fault the affordable price tag either.
He and Dr Phillips both recommend using the CeraVe resurfacing retinol serum (?13.48, Amazon.co.uk), especially for dry skin. “It contains encapsulated retinol, liquorice extract and niacinamide, which reduces oil production, and provides gentle exfoliation to improve the appearance of pores,” says Dr Phillips.
It also earned a spot in our guide to the best retinol creams and serums. Our beauty writer was left impressed with the lightweight, fast-absorbing formula that she described as “a great entry point into retinol for anybody new to the ingredient or curious about it”.
If you’re looking for budget-friendly retinol, one of our beauty writer’s favourites is the Byoma sensitive retinol oil (?17.99, Sephora.co.uk). Ideal for beginners, thanks to its gentle formula, it left our skin brighter, plumper, smoother and noticeably softer. We saw a particular improvement in textured areas on our cheeks and around our nose, and for less than ?20, it’s one of the hardest-working retinol products you can find.
Dr Phillips is also a fan of the Skinceuticals glycolic renewal cleanser (?45, Skinceuticals.co.uk), which gently cleanses the skin, offering a mild exfoliation without stripping the skin of moisture.
We also love the Murad targeted pore corrector (?36.75, Amazon.co.uk), which both blurs the skin for a short-term, soft-focus finish and reduces shine so enlarged pores aren’t as visible. Simply apply onto cleansed skin, allow it to dry and follow with your moisturiser. It’s brilliant if you want smoother texture and fewer visible pores with daily use.
While you can’t get rid of pores, we hope that now you’re armed with this expert knowledge and product recommendations that you start to see the appearance of your pores reduced.
Want more info on at-home exfoliating treatments? Read our review of the best chemical peels